My father was 8 years old when Russian authorities invaded his town in Poland, murdered his father, and shipped most of the family — my dad, his mother, and 3 of his 4 siblings — off on a train. Stuffed in a car with many other families, they began a days-long journey without food or … Continue reading Out of the Woods
The discovery of a new favorite wine, grape, or region can happen at any time or place, and it often occurs when you least expect it. For some, it happens at a fancy restaurant. For others, in a beautiful vineyard. With me, it all started in a sewer. Let me back up. In 2004, I … Continue reading All the World’s a Pub
Note: the below post was a guest blog I wrote for Morrell & Company Wines. Which one of these is not like the others? Good wine Sophisticated food Stimulating conversation Young children I love my kids. More than anything. But, I also love entertaining. And, sometimes the former makes the latter just a tad more … Continue reading A Perfect–Imperfect Balancing Act
Once upon a time — back when my wife and I were just boyfriend and girlfriend — we would take little weekend trips to nearby cities like Philadelphia, Washington D.C, and others. Actually, we may have been engaged at that point. Or, perhaps, we were newly married? Doesn’t really matter — the point is: WE … Continue reading Stir: Prune Gnocchi
Many accomplished chefs will say that fall and winter is their favorite time of the year to cook. They’ll tell you it’s too easy to prepare a delicious meal in summer, with gorgeous produce everywhere you look. Using more humble ingredients, and turning them into something tasty using fermentation, pickling, and long briases — now, … Continue reading Taste and Technique: French Onion Soup
While ramps may be spring’s bellwether, asparagus its most versatile bounty, and strawberries its hedonistic delight, morel mushrooms are the season’s precious jewels. I’m not really a mushroomy-kind of guy, but when these beautiful and deliciously earthy guys come around each year, I use them for as long as I can before my wife eventually … Continue reading Eleven Madison Park: Morel Custard with Trout Roe
Gramercy Tavern is a New York institution. I love its well-executed food, it’s high level of service, and it’s cozy atmosphere just as much as anyone. However, when I first bought their cookbook a few years back, I was disappointed because there wasn’t very much I actually wanted to cook from it. Objectively, the book … Continue reading Gramercy Tavern: Arctic Char with Cucumber Broth
I was recently planning a small dinner party for which I planned to make the venison and beet dish from the Eleven Madison Park the Next Chapter Cookbook. I was excited about the recipe and had already began prepping it, even though the dinner was over a week away. However, just moments after my venison … Continue reading Eleven Madison Park: Aged Beef with Eggplant
Back of the House 