Out of the Woods

My father was 8 years old when Russian authorities invaded his town in Poland, murdered his father, and shipped most of the family — my dad, his mother, and 3 of his 4 siblings — off on a train. Stuffed in a car with many other families, they began a days-long journey without food or … Continue reading Out of the Woods

The Old World

A hot and crowded train station in Florence, Italy. It’s 1997. There’s no such thing as social media, email barely exists, and cell phones are mainly for the rich. Ten days ago in Amsterdam, I made plans to meet my friend Elliot here at noon, but it was a long shot either of us would … Continue reading The Old World

Eleven Madison Park: Morel Custard with Trout Roe

While ramps may be spring’s bellwether, asparagus its most versatile bounty, and strawberries its hedonistic delight, morel mushrooms are the season’s precious jewels. I’m not really a mushroomy-kind of guy, but when these beautiful and deliciously earthy guys come around each year, I use them for as long as I can before my wife eventually … Continue reading Eleven Madison Park: Morel Custard with Trout Roe